It is best to obtain good quality seed from local merchants rather than saving seed from your garden. Seed can be stored for up to a year in a cool, dry, dark place. The first year you may want to purchase enough seed for two years. The next year, use the year-old seed, and store the new seed that you purchase.

Selecting a Garden Site

Although many urban gardeners have little choice, selecting a garden site is extremely important. An area exposed to full or near-full sunlight with deep, well-drained, fertile soil is ideal. The location should be near a water outlet and free of competition from existing shrubs or trees. By planting in full sunlight and in good soil, as well as by properly selecting crops, you can turn almost any site into a highly productive garden.

As a home gardener, one of your first major tasks is deciding which vegetables to grow. Table 1 lists crops suitable for small and large gardens. Raise vegetables which return a good portion of nutritious food for the time and space required. Vine crops such as watermelon, cantaloupe, winter squash, and cucumbers require large amounts of space, unless you plant them near a fence or trellis. Plant according to family needs, and resist over-planting any particular vegetable, although surpluses may be preserved.

If your garden is not in an area receiving full or near-full sunlight, try leafy crops such as leaf lettuce, mustard, and parsley. Table 2 lists vegetable crops which do well in full sunlight and those that tolerate partial shade.

Planning Your Garden

A gardener needs a plan, just as an architect does. Careful planning lessens gardening work and increases returns on labor.

Long-term crops require a long growing period. Plant them where they will not interfere with care and harvesting of short-term crops. Plant tall-growing crops where they will not shade or interfere with growth of smaller crops. Plant vegetables such as okra, staked tomatoes, pole beans, and sweet corn on the garden's north side to avoid shading lower-growing crops such as radishes, leaf lettuce, onions, and bush beans. Group crops according to the rate of maturity. The table below shows the relative maturity rate of various vegetable crops. By grouping vegetables according to maturity rate, one crop can be planted to take the place of another as soon as it is removed. When you remove an old crop, replace it with an unrelated crop. For example, replace early beans with beets, bush squash, or bell peppers. Crop rotation helps prevent diseases and insect buildup.

Deciding When to Plant

Usually home gardens can be planted 10 days to 2 weeks earlier than commercial fields because of the protection offered by existing buildings, trees, and shrubs. Proper planting time is important if maximum quality and production are expected. Planting time varies widely by area, so consult with your county extension agent or with experienced growers in your area to determine when to plant your garden.

Preparing the Soil

Many garden sites do not have the deep, well-drained, fertile soil that is ideal for vegetable growing. These soils must be altered to provide good drainage and aeration. Adding organic matter or sand can help prepare heavy clay soils for planting.

Apply 1 to 2 inches of good sand and 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to the garden site surface, and turn it under in late winter or early spring to improve the soil's physical quality. Work on the soil's physical condition over a couple of seasons rather than trying to develop desirable soil in a season or two. Make periodic additions of organic matter in the form of composted materials, peanut hulls, rice hulls, grass clippings, or other organic matter. Turn the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches—the deeper the better. Gypsum improves soil structure and drainage. Add gypsum at the rate of 6 to 8 pounds per 100 square feet where the soil is a tight, heavy clay.

Make sure the organic matter or sand you add to the garden site is free of soil pests.

Never work wet garden soil. Soils containing a high degree of organic matter can be worked at a higher moisture content than heavy clay soils. To determine if the soil is suitable for working, squeeze together a small handful of soil. If it sticks together in a ball and does not readily crumble under slight pressure by the thumb and finger, it is too wet for working.

Seeds germinate more readily in well-prepared soil than in coarse, lumpy soil. Thorough preparation greatly reduces the work of planting and caring for the crop. It is possible, however, to overdo preparation of some soils. An ideal soil for planting is granular, not powdery fine.

Fertilizing the Soil

Proper fertilization is another important key to successful vegetable gardening. The amount of fertilizer needed depends upon soil type and crops. All soils vary, from deep blow sands to fertile, well-drained soils to heavy, dark clays underlaid by layers of rock. Crops grown on sandy soils usually respond to liberal amounts of potassium, whereas crops grown on clay soils do not.

Heavy clay soils can be fertilized considerably more heavily at planting than can sandy soils. Heavy clay soils and those high in organic matter can safely absorb and store fertilizer at three to four times the rate of sandy soils. Poor, thin, sandy soils, which need fertilizer the most, unfortunately cannot be fed as heavily and still maintain plant safety. The solution is to feed poor, thin soils more often and in lighter doses.

In general, if your garden is located on deep, sandy soil, apply a complete pre-plant fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12 at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet. If your garden consists of a soil type with a high percentage of clay, a fertilizer such as 10-20-10 or 12-24-12 at 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet should be suitable.

Apply the fertilizer a few days before planting. Spade the garden plot, spread the fertilizer by hand or with a fertilizer distributor, and then work the soil one or two times to properly mix the fertilizer with the soil. After the fertilizer is well mixed with the soil, bed the garden into rows in preparation for planting.

On alkaline soils, apply 1-20-0 (superphosphate) directly beneath the intended seed row or plant row before planting. Apply the superphosphate 2 to 4 inches beneath the seed or roots of the plant at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds per 100 linear feet of row. Take care to avoid banding nitrogen material directly beneath the row. Death of the seed or severe burning of the plants could result.

Apply additional nitrogen as a furrow or sidedress application (in a row alongside the row of plants) later in the season. For most soils, 2 pounds of 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate) per 100 linear feet of row, applied in the furrow and watered in, is adequate. Apply at first fruit set for crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and squash. Sidedress leafy crops such as cabbage and lettuce when they develop several sets of first leaves after germination.

Planting

Plant your garden as early as possible in the spring and fall so the vegetables will grow and mature during ideal conditions.

Transplanting vegetable crops wherever possible allows earlier harvesting and extends the productive period of many crops. Where transplanting is not practical or convenient, seed directly.

Seeding

A general rule of thumb for planting is to cover the seed 2 to 3 times its widest measurement. This is especially true for big-seeded crops such as green beans, sweet corn, cucumbers, cantaloupes, and watermelons. For smaller-seeded crops such as carrots, lettuce, or onions, an average planting depth of ¼ to ½ inch is usually adequate. Plant the seeds fairly close together, then when the plants emerge, thin them out to recommended spacing.

Do not allow the soil to over-dry or crust during germination, but do not over-water. Table 1 shows how long it takes certain plants to emerge when they have been properly planted.

Transplanting

Avoid transplanting too deep or too shallow, especially if plants are in containers such as peat pots. Deep planting often causes developed roots to abort, and planting too shallow exposes containers to the surface and dries out the roots. Some crops are easily transplanted bare-root while others are best transplanted in containers (see Table 2). When transplanting plants such as tomatoes or peppers, use a starter solution. You can purchase starter solutions at local nurseries, or you can make some at home by mixing 2 to 3 cups of fertilizer (such as 10-20-10) in 5 gallons of water. Use less fertilizer on light, sandy soils. Apply 1 to 2 pints of starter solution, depending upon plant size, into each transplant hole before planting. This prevents the plants from drying out and provides adequate sources of fertilizer for young, growing plants.

Watering

Apply enough water to penetrate the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. For best production, most gardens require a moisture supply equivalent to 1 inch of rain a week during the growing season. Light, sandy soils generally require more frequent watering than heavier dark soils. If you use sprinklers, water in the morning to allow plant foliage to dry before night. This practice helps prevent foliage diseases, since humidity and cool temperatures encourage disease development on most vegetable crops.

The use of drip irrigation to supply water also helps prevent disease. Additionally, this system of irrigation is the most efficient use of water available and is ideally suited for use with mulches.

Controlling Weeds


A long-handled hoe is the best tool for control of undesirable plants in vegetable gardens. Chemical weed control is usually ineffective because it doesn't kill all of the weeds, and it will likely kill vegetable crops in small gardens. Cultivate and hoe shallowly to avoid injury to vegetable roots lying near the soil surface. Control weeds in the seedling stage to prevent them from seeding and spreading. The use of mulch is also an effective means of weed control.

Mulching


Mulching will increase yields, conserve moisture, prevent weed growth, regulate soil temperature, and decrease losses caused by ground rot of many vegetable crops. Organic mulches can be made of straw, leaves, grass, bark, compost, sawdust, or peat moss. Organic mulches mixed into the soil will improve the soil condition, aeration, and drainage. The amount of organic mulch to use depends on the type, but 1 to 2 inches of organic material applied to the garden surface around growing plants is usually adequate.

When you turn organic mulches under for subsequent crops, add additional fertilizer at the rate of about 1 pound per 100 square feet to help soil organisms break down the additional organic matter.

Preventing Pests and Disease


Diseases and insects are a great concern to gardeners. Long growing seasons with relatively mild winters encourage large insect populations. Avoid spraying when possible, but use chemicals if necessary. Exercise care when deciding which chemicals to apply. Spray only those crops which are listed on the chemical's container. When used according to the manufacturer's directions, chemicals pose no threat to the home gardener. Wear gloves, and do not expose skin to garden chemicals if possible.

Disease control sprays can prevent diseases, but they can't eradicate them. Cool, damp conditions are conducive to foliage diseases. Carefully watch your garden for symptoms of diseases. Use only approved fungicides. (Your county extension agent can provide more specific information on common diseases and approved fungicides in your area.)

Harvesting


To get the most enjoyment out of your home vegetable garden, harvest vegetables when they are mature. A vegetable's full flavor develops only at peak maturity, resulting in the excellent taste of vine-ripened tomatoes, tender green beans, and crisp, flavorful lettuce. For maximum flavor and nutritional content, harvest the crop the day it is to be eaten or preserved.

Correcting Common Garden Problems Symptoms Possible Causes Corrective Measures Plants stunted in growth; sickly, yellow color. Infertile soil or abnormal soil pH. Use fertilizer and correct pH according to soil test. Use 2 to 3 pounds of complete fertilizer per 100 square feet in absence of soil test. Plants growing in compacted, poorly-drained soil. Modify soil with organic matter or coarse sand. Insect or disease damage. Use a regular spray or dust program. Iron deficiency. Apply iron to soil or foliage. Plants stunted in growth; sickly, purplish color. Low temperature. Plant at the proper time for the plant type and your area. Don't use light-colored mulch too early in the season. Low available phospate. Apply sufficient phosphate at planting. Holes in leaves; leaves yellowish and drooping or distorted in shape. Damage by insects. Use recommended insecticides at regular intervals. Plant leaves with spots; dead, dried areas; or powdery or rusty areas. Plant disease. Use resistant varieties, remove diseased plants when they are noticed, and use a regular spray program. Plants wilt even though sufficient water is present. Soluble salts too high or root system damage. Have soil tested by county extension agent. Use soil insecticides, fungicides, and resistant varieties. Poor drainage and aeration. Use organic matter or sand in soil. Insect or nematode damages. Use recommended varieties and soil insecticides or nematocides. Plants tall, spindly, and unproductive. Excessive shade. Relocate to sunny area. Keep down weeds. Excessive nitrogen. Reduce applications of nitrogen. Blossom drop (tomatoes). Hot, dry periods. Use mulch and water. Plant heat-tolerant varieties. Minor element deficiencies. Use fertilizer containing zinc, iron, and manganese. Failure to set fruit (vine crops). Poor pollination. Avoid spraying when bees are present. Leathery, dry, brown blemish on the blossom end of tomatoes, peppers, and watermelons. Blossom end rot. Maintain a uniform soil moisture supply. Avoid overwatering and excessive nitrogen.

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